Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Today's travel agenda: We traveled by train from Bangkok, Thailand to Aranyaprathet, Thailand which is the "end of the line" and the location where you can cross into Cambodia. My husband wanted to walk across the border! From Poipet, Cambodia, we then hired a driver to take us to Siem Reap, a two-hour drive. Before it closed, we were able to visit Angkor Wat.
Our wake-up call came at 4:00 am and we checked out of the Courtyard Marriott in Bangkok by 4:45 am. We took a taxi to the Hua Lamphong Railway Station, which only took a few minutes. (I was a little worried because the driver did not speak English.) Just inside the entrance was the counter to purchase our tickets -- 48 Baht, or $1.50 each -- to Aranyaprathet, Thailand, a six-hour ride. We easily found Platform #6 only a few steps away. Then I saw "it". My husband wanted me to travel on this old train for six hours with the windows down and no a/c? Now, I am used to the trains in India, but the moment that I saw this train, well, I just started to laugh in disbelief. I wanted to know where the 1st class cars were. He told me that there were no 1st class and no 2nd class cars; they were all 3rd class cars! So that means we're not going to get WiFi either?
We had arrived so early, at least we had first pick of seats. But that didn't last long. They put up a sign at the front of the car that said, "reserved for monks, disabled and senior citizens". So, they moved us! The train left the station at exactly 5:55 and it was now light. An employee came by to punch our tickets. Then a man came by to sell newspapers. I actually saw someone walk by with rolls of toilet paper, so things are looking up! I haven't seen a rat or mouse and I have to admit that the train is rather clean. I fished out my hair clips from the bottom of my purse and secured my hair because of the wind and the open windows. How we look is not important.
After traveling for one hour, we had made seven stops and we were still on the outskirts of Bangkok. The train stops for approximately five minutes at each stop. Do not be tempted to stick your head out the window! The buildings, rooftops and tree limbs are only inches away. I was content to take in the scenery whether it was beautiful green rice paddies, ponds of lotus or farmland. In the cities, we saw sights similar to India. Poor is poor. People's homes were so close to the rail tracks that you can see in their "living" quarters. But I did see automatic washing machines, lined up three in a row, for the use of all the residents in one community. When we reached the countryside, the stops were fewer and shorter. I am so glad that I put my Odomos cream on my feet and ankles. I brought it back with me from India; the mosquitoes leave you alone. At some point, I said to my husband, "Elder Nielsen would love this train ride!" Kent was right, if you fly you just don't get to see the people and the countryside.
The view from our seats looking out at another train at the station.
The is the sign on the side of the train -- just making sure I am going to the right place.
This is what the Hua Lamphong Railway Station platforms look like at 5:00 in the morning.
As soon as we got all settled in with our suitcases above us, someone came and put up this sign to reserve the front seats of the car. It says, "reserved for monks/disabled/senior citizen". They shooed us out.
As soon as it got light, I came around to the front of the train to take a picture.
The train looked like it had a few too many "accidents".
While we were waiting for our train to leave the station, I noticed that another train had arrived at a nearby platform and the passengers had gotten off. Then the train left the station for its next stop. Here, workers are counting and sorting the sheets that had come off those sleeping cars.
By riding a train, you can see so much, especially how people live.
There are pictures of the king at almost every train station.
Bhumibol Adulyadej is the reigning king of Thailand. He is known as Rama IX. Having reigned since 9 June 1946, he is the world's longest-serving current head of state and the longest-reigning monarch in Thai history. He is the defender of the Buddhist faith in Thailand.
At most stations, there is an employee who holds a green flag to let you know that the train is ready to go. A red flag means the train has stopped and you can get on and off.
The rich green of rice paddies.
Oh, oh, we are back in India!
This is actually a train stop.
You precariously walk across the planks to get to the road.
monks on their journey
The woman who goes up and down the aisles selling food decided to put her basket on the seat next to me. She then took a seat across the aisle to rest her feet.
I'm pretty sure that those are hot dogs, tater tots and fried chicken. In the plastic bottle is a sauce. The plastic bags are used to put your food in and then they pour the sauce over. You then eat out of the bag using a slender stick.
there is a small temple at every little village
lotus pond
end of the line
Yea! We arrived in Aranyaprathet, Thailand at 12:30 in the afternoon. Fortunately they had a rather nice restroom right at the platform, although everyone says the word, "toilet". It is always a must to have a small package of kleenex in your pocket or purse. We took a tuk tuk (after bargaining with the driver on a price) to the building where we filled out immigration arrival and departure forms. A young man who spoke English "latched" onto us and acted as our little guide throughout this process. It is basically organized chaos, with no signs to point you in the right direction and all of the buildings are in different locations. We had read about the process of crossing the border at this location from Thailand into Cambodia.
This marks the eastern border of Thailand.
We are now about ready to cross the border, by foot,
from Thailand into the Kingdom of Cambodia.
After filling out papers we got in a line for leaving the country and our Thai debarkation paper was removed from our passports and they took our picture. We then crossed the border, walking and dragging our luggage, through the muddy streets, dodging the large trucks, motorbikes and people pulling vegetable carts. I'm sorry, but I seemed to miss the "moment" where you are supposed to look around, take in the surroundings and say, "wow -- isn't this great"! We were now in Poipet, Cambodia.
Our "guide" ushered us to another building and we got into a line for Cambodian immigration, handed over our passports and paperwork and they also took our picture. We then boarded a bus and were taken about one mile to a transportation "hub". At that point, we could decide to take a bus, a shared cab, or an individual cab to Siem Reap. We chose the individual cab and paid $40.00 in U.S. money for our 95-mile trip. We exchanged our currency at this location also. There was no hope of a restaurant so we quickly purchased a bottle of pop and a can of Pringles. Did someone say, this was a no frills trip?
Our driver spoke just enough English but he was sleepy and stopped once to splash water on his face. He was driving on the right side of the road, but his wheel was on the right side of the car. There is something wrong with this picture. The views from the two-lane highway were of farmland, stalls and shops. Honking was allowed. Upon arriving in Siem Reap, our driver turned down a dirt road and stopped at a house that was still under construction. It was explained to us that we were to move from the car to a waiting tuk tuk and he would take us to the hotel, no charge. This is just how they operate.
I was never so glad to arrive at the Tara Angkor Hotel. It was now 4:00. The receptionist sat us down in chairs and gave us cool, soothing wash cloths. We must have looked like refugees -- I'm surprised that they let us in such a nice place. When I looked at my wash cloth it had the dirt of the earth on it! We checked in (they always want your passport) and were taken to our room. We were told not to open the window for fear that we would let in the "scarey" mosquitoes!
Tara Angkor Hotel
Siem Reap, Cambodia
The pool looked so inviting, but we knew that we were in a time crunch because our guide book said that Angkor Wat would close at 6:00 pm. We got a tuk tuk to the site, but they told us that we could not purchase tickets. Actually, they close the ticket office and then open it again and start selling tickets at 5:00 pm for the next day. So we were first in line to purchase tickets (and they took a picture of us!) and the tuk tuk driver took us quickly to the site. We knew that we could "do" this in one hour before the sun set and it closed! Actually, lots of people come out at sunrise and sunset. We hoofed it, walked up steep steps and down steep steps and tried to take in the grandeur, the centuries, the generations and the importance of this site. Then it started to rain. They call it a "mango shower" and it quickly blew over. So, now, we were tired, hot, dirty, sweaty and wet!
Siem Reap literally means Siam Defeated, referring to the Khmer sacking of the great Thai city of Ayutthaya in the 17th century. Until recently, this French Indochinese town with its Colonial buildings and tree-lined boulevards was little more than a staging post for visitors on their way to the temples of Angkor. It is fast-becoming a destination in its own right, with restaurants, boutique hotels, shopping and a new airport.
The area of Angkor is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world and attracts millions of visitors each year. The ancient capital of Cambodia is often referred to as the eighth wonder of the world. For nearly six centuries (802 to 1432 AD) it was the political and religious heart of the Khmer Empire. Angkor today contains around 70 temples, tombs, and other ancient ruins within 77 square miles in the dense jungles of northwestern Cambodia.
Angkor Wat is four miles north of Siem Reap and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the world's largest religious complex and is visually, architecturally and artistically breathtaking. It is a massive three-tiered pyramid crowned by five lotus-like towers rising 65 meters from ground level. The temple itself is 1 km square. Angkor Wat, which literally means the City which is a Temple, is the centerpiece of any visit to the temples of Angkor.
The view of the temple from the giant pool is stunning with its five towers reflected in the still water.
aerial view
Built during the 12th century by King Suryavarman II, this spectacular complex was originally dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishnu. The layout is based on a mandala (sacred design of the Hindu cosmos). A five-towered temple shaped like a lotus bud, representing Mount Meru, the mythical abode of the gods and the center of the universe, stands in the middle of the complex. The intricate carvings on the walls marking the temple's perimeter are outstanding and include a 1,970-ft long panel of bas-reliefs, and carving of apsaras (celestial dancing girls). The outermost walls and the moat surrounding the entire complex symbolize the edge of the world and the cosmic ocean, respectively. Angkor Wat, unusual among Khmer temples, faces the setting sun, a symbol of death.
The Terrace of Honor was used by the king to receive ceremonial processions and foreign dignitaries.
Angkor Wat was constructed as a Hindu temple but now serves as a Buddhist temple since Buddhism became Cambodia's dominant religion in the 14th century.
interior courtyard
The library provides views of the upper levels of Angkor Wat.
Gallery of Bas-Reliefs
The southern section of the western gallery depicts several scenes from the Hindu epic Mahabharata. The intricate bas-reliefs here feature images of hundreds of brave, weapon-bearing warriors engaged in furious combat during the Battle of Kurukshetra.
The Causeway
The wide pathway leading to the temple's main entrance on the west side affords a spectacular view of Angkor Wat's grand exterior. Balustrades carved in the form of nagas (serpents) once lined both sides of the avenue.
Many thanks to the tuk tuk driver who waited for us. We enjoyed the lovely four mile "scenic route" back to the hotel. We were more hungry than anything, so we just had to eat. We cleaned off more sweat and were accepted at the restaurant. Kent got (finally) Chicken Fried Rice and I got a Club or Tara sandwich and french fries. We were surprised at the varied menu; probably so many international visitors come through here. Back to the room for the longest and hottest shower I have ever taken (except after Girls' Camp!). I collapsed on the bed at 8:30. Getting up at 4 am is for young people!
did dad walk up the steep steps??
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